The little Soda puddle on the floor was all the motivation necessary to make the decision to replace the copper radiator with an aluminum unit with champion.
After exploring different options, I made some calls to find more specific details.Infate, most of the companies seemed very busy taking care of other customers to answer the phone, so I kept calling until someone responded, and I arrived at Paydirt withChampionRadiators.com.
I talked to Justin, and he had a lot of knowledge about what the radiator would work best for my corvette '76 depending on my requirements.
My desire list included:
- A direct adjustment radiator (without special modifications or necessary supports).
- A heavy unit (my car has air conditioning and uses it a lot).
- Use the radiator hoses of the same size.
During my research, I learned that a two -inch radiator is more efficient in cooling than a line with 5/8 inches (fuente:Racing summit).
However, the Champion 3 lines use 3/4 -inch pipes, which is equivalent to 2.25 inches of total, against only 2 inches for 2 rows.In other words, this 3 -line radiator offers more cooling capacity than a row.
I spent a lot of time and effort trying to make sure that my 5 -year -old copper radiator was clean and liberty of blockages inside.Infecting, he began to leak shortly after replacing the hoses.
It was not a great leak, but this is how leaks begin.I could not identify the exact location, but it doesn't matter.I also saw a small leak that started around one of the doors of the transmission refrigerator.And the superior began to cry, which means that the tube was beginning to fail.
In addition to all this, a blockade within the radiator can also lead to irregular caliber readings and, as practically all other components, this was the last in this long list.
The remaining question is: a new radiator, aluminum or not, would you solve my vette overheating problems?
There is only one way to discover it!
Removing the hood
Before the radiator is launched, the hood must be removed to make space.Then, the radiator together with the roof can be removed safely.This work can be done by a homeerselfer at home, but having an assistant will facilitate the task.
I heard that some people replace their radiators without removing the hood, but I really believe that not having it on the road facilitates the task.If you decide to remove the hood, you will definitely need someone to help you avoid damaging the hood and /or the car.
If you have no one available to help you, you can hire a mobile mechanic to help you with the exchange.The snake a few hundred dollars is much cheaper than repairing and re -painting body panels, and having someone with knowledge that helps it can a good idea.
This is a list of elements that I eliminated or launched, as well as things I did to prepare the radiator for elimination:
- Hood (removed)
- The air filter and the flexible tube set (removed)
- Snorkel of Air Admission (Eliminated)
- Radiator fan (eliminated)
- External supports (2) that keep the capacitor to the main support (eliminated)
- Internal supports (2) that keep the radiator to the main support (eliminated)
- Radiator nucleus support bolts (eliminated 4 upper/medium, loosen 2 lower)
- Frame screws (2) that bind it to the central support below (eliminated)
- Nucleus ground connection cable support (disconnect)
- Drain the radiator cooling fluid
- Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator entrance
- Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator outlet
With all the elements on the top list, the radiator has been removed from the car.It is not really heavy, approximately 30 pounds. But it is strange, so having an assistant is an advantage.
The following figure shows the location of the supports in the image above (red arrows).They are in the same order.
I drew some lines for the supports to facilitate the alignment of the hood.But the best approach (provided its hood is perfectly aligned) is to pierce some small alignment holes.
I also removed the fan to give me a lot of space to remove the radiator cover in one piece.I think some turn to cut half, but this approach was not an option for my car and totally out of question.
He held the hood in his place with an extension post of the painter while removed the two bolts that support the hood support in the hood.To facilitate extraction.
Finally, I hit a piece of folded paper towel for several times like a pillow between the hood edges and stops.This simple protection can help avoid fries and scratches.
With all the preparation work, I recruited my neighbor Joe, who never worked in cars, but I really wanted to give me a hand.I made sure to explain every step in advance and told him thatUS(not the hood) would control the elimination process.
We look at the screws and place the hood safely on the table that had established for this purpose.
Eliminating the radiator
Well, I am getting a little ahead here, since it is possible that many other components should loosen and/or eliminate before the old radiator can be released.
In addition, if your corvette has air conditioning like mine, the condenser will be on its way and can also be damaged during this procedure.I have done this problem by eliminating the actors from the headlights that may seem extreme, but something that was an intelligent idea in my case, because I did not want to harm the condenser, because I have an A/C system in my vette.
As you probably know, I work alone, so I didn't have much time to take photos of each step.However, I filmed a video due to the complexity of the entire process, I had to divide into several parts, which resulted in a series.
The first part of the series of 6 parts is at the end of this publication.
To remove the cover and the radiator, I removed the headlight actors, as mentioned above.This allowed me to bow the radiator and the condenser enough front, which gave enough space for the cover to leave a piece, followed by the radiator.
As you probably know, the radiator's nucleus support is arrested for six screws, three on the side.I removed both and the medium on each side and loosen the remaining two.That the cover could be removed intact.
Not having the road actuators also eliminated the possibility of damage to the condenser.The image above shows the lighthouse actuators in place and when it includes the main support, the CAP driver's reeds are crushed against them.Many old scars made.By others.
I did not want the new damaged radiator reeds, so I protected both sides with cardboard from the box where the Rad. This was an excellent idea and my aluminum radiator is impeccable.
I had to modify one of the lowest assembly supports, since I was interfering with the radiator drainage.I used my DREMEL tool to cut a chip that was creating the problem, and this was in charge of this problem.I also gave a layer to the support.of ink to avoid oxide.
With the new radiator instead, I took advantage of the cover block and installed the lower radiator hose.This is the perfect time for this mod.
Then install the cover and removed all the radiator cardboard and paper protective paper.
I also changed one of the ground contacts to a more accessible location in the main support.
The 3 -year -old aluminum radiator is a direct adjustment, most of the time, so that all rubber supports and pillows are adjusted correctly and in the same place.This facilitates the installation.
I also recreated the two support stamps for accommodation.These stamps are very important, since they block the meat from the meat and redirect it towards the radiator, instead of wasted in the engine compartment.The stamps of the radiator, since they are crucial for the proper operation of the car.
Radiator exchange videos series
If a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth one million.
And while it is impossible for the operation of a man to film all the details, the videos together with the information of this article will give a better understanding of what is involved and the necessary steps to change the radiator of his Corvette C3.
The video above is part 1 of a series of six episodes that I sent to meCanal do YouTube.
Exchange a C3 Corvette radiator is what I call a"Advanced DIY Project".But don't let this description be scared or discouraged.
I had never changed one so far and, although challenging, it is feasible, as shown in my videos.And the work was done well!
With thePortable QuickjackIt makes the work more manageable (not easier) and also saves a lot of time.But this project can also be done with the right floor supports and cat.It is not so safe or fast compared to the elevator, but it can be done.
I am sure that a qualified mechanic would charge a lot of money for this work, so it is possible that he wishes to obtain a quote before letting someone begin to do his car.In addition, the money you save can be used to buy a Quickjack, so it is something to consider.
Anyway, I hope you find the article and the informative videos.
Thank you for following my 76th blog!
Product links ...(#Patrocinated)
•Radiator cooling funnel kit for spill test